Merry Christmas Dec 23-26/08

We have finished the Otaga Railtrail in Middlemarch and staying here for Xmas Eve so we can get a few groceries before heading to Christchurch. It is sunny and warm (26 Celuis). It doesn't feel like Christmas without the snow but when we hear of -30 temperatures at home we will put up with the lack of snow.

Merry Christmas to all of our families, friends (in Canada and New Zealand) and fellow travellers!

Wishing you love and peace,

Sharon & Peter

Daisybank-Middlemarch Dec 22-24/08

We get an early start before any cyclists pass by. It is a warm sunny day with blue sky and puffy clouds. It is mostly downhill all day.

We stop for lunch in Ranfurly it is an art deco village. The savoury scones are expensive $4NZ but so good!

The hills are fawn shades, lush green and the bald low mountains are dappled with cloud shadows. We camp at Daisybank which is a lovely treed spot with a pit toilet.

The next day we pass through a tunnel by the ? Gorge. There are some rough patches on the trail but the scenery is enjoyable.

At Hyde we sit on the verandah in the shade for lunch, again savoury scones. Along the trail we chat with a Dutch couple who are also heading to Middlemarch. They end up at the same motorcamp.

In Middlemarch we stop at the store for groceries and I send email. The kitchen at the motorcamp is an old railcar, it is cute but small. We watch "Forest Gump".

As it is nearing Christmas and stores will be closed we stay as a rest day Christmas Eve and also Christmas Day as it is cold and wet. I phone Mom and get news from home. Apparently we are missing some cold wintery weather across Canada, so although we are missing a good Christmas dinner we will put up with the lack of snow and warmer temperatures.

We spend the whole day in the lounge reading. Although we don't have turkey and all the fixings, Peter makes a good sidekick and tuna dinner...I must be hungry as it is tasty.

There is a group of people here from Red Deer, Alberta (they have a brother here who owns a restaurant). We watch 2 kiwi movies that night, "Whale Rider" (my favourite) and "The Fastest Indian".

Day 50 cycling 41KM
Day 51 cycling 39KM

Otaga Railtrail - Omakau-Oturehua Dec19-21/08

We start the Otaga Railtrail at Alexandra (skip 10km from Clyde to Alexandra). You can imagine as you pass through the rock passages a train winding its way along. The trail parallels the road for a ways, it is tempting to get on the road as the trail is a bit rough.

I don't feel too energetic today, however we carry on to motorcamp at Omakau. It is a tired looking facility. I play Solitare in the kitchen, it is cold. It starts raining during the night and rains steadily all the next day, so we walk into town and hang out at a cafe all day for lunch and dinner.

The old fellow that looks after the motorcamp offers us a small cabin at no extra price, he is concerned that we will get wet, however as our tent is already set up with our dry items we say put, but it is a kind offer..

There were other people that tried to drive up hill to get close to cabin but can't make it. They have friends cycling trail in cold rain. It appears that they don't stay.

We do short cycle to Ophir to see old buildings before continuing rail trail. After the rain there is snow on the peaks -pretty.

We stop for lunch at a viewpoint before doing the two tunnels at Poolburn Gorge and have a snack at the historic Gilchrist's General Store in Oturehua.

As we decide to rough camp, we have supper in a Grangers Shed (before Wedderburn). Shortly after we set up our tent a lone hiker passes by on the trail.

Day 48 cycling 36KM
Day 49 cycling 37KM

Ettrick-Alexandra Dec17-18/08

Although we were only going to go to Tapanui (34KM), I feel strong so we agree to go to Ettrick.

It is sunny and dry and with a tailwind behind us and easy hills we don't stop for lunch until 50KM at Heriot. After lunch we have some good climbs and as we near the top of one climb it starts to rain, it moves over us quickly and the sun comes out again.

There is a long steepish downhill then some rolling hills before winding up again. As it starts spitting again, I don my rain jacket. It starts raining hard as I descend, it is steep with low speed corners (45KM), so I take it slow. Thunder starts, fortunately I am mostly down by then.

We have a snack at a teahouse before short cycle to motorcamp. The woman at the motorcamp is pleasant, she mentions that there are other Canadians at the camp who she points out to us as she shows us the facilities.

I manage to catch some of the best commercials from other countries, they are really innovative and funny. The motorcamp is an old school building and grounds.

This area has numerous fruit and vegetable farms so we pick up some cherries on the way.

We stop in Roxburgh and enjoy Jimmy's Pies fresh from his shop (minced). The deserts look very tempting. We chat with a business man from Queenstown.

Approximately 9KM beyond Roxburgh we start the climb. It is a very challenging day with steep climbs, descents and more steep climbs. Even after I think that we are at the top, there are more hills but then the descent gets us most of the way up the next hill without too much effort. There is also more traffic then we would like passing at high speed.

Along the top, I stop to take photos of a lovely old stone building "Fruitland Lodge".

There is a strong crosswind, which is challenging on the descents when we pass from a sheltered rock outcropping to an exposed area.

The final 2Km is a fast descent with some pretty views on the way down. The bridge is a really impressive entrance to the town (old arches).

It is 8:30PM when we get to motorcamp after supper at KFC so we will pay in morning.

Alexandra appears to be a prosperous little town, I use the library internet to update my blog.


Day 46 cycling 85KM
Day 47 cycling 54KM

Winton-Gore Dec 13-16/08

It is a warmer day than yesterday. After lunch the wind picks up, it fluctuates between a crosswind, headwind or tailwind depending on which direction we are heading.

The rest stop is in front of a cemetary, so not suitable to camp. According to our book there is no motorcamp in Winton. In town, a woman at the grocery store directs us to camping permitted at golf course. As it is a ways out of town, we opt for takeaway before we go there.

I have a huge serving of chinese food, chicken, cashews, veggies and rice...it is big enough for two and loaded with a good variety of veggies (brocolli, califlower, zuchini, etc.).

At the golf course I am thrilled to find out that it has a shower.

Next day it is generally rolling hills with some good ones, beside pastures of cows and sheep. At one field a cow comes running up to the fence to have a good look at us.

On one downhill, a big truck coming in the opposite direction blows my helmut back. The last 10-20KM, my neck and inner thighs are quiet sore. Fortunately when we turn off on Waimumu Road, the hills are more gentle except one good climb and then there is a good downhill into Gore.

At the camp we chat with a Canadian couple, he is from Nova Scotia and she is from Yukon. They planned to tandem cycle but had some close calls north of Auckland so ended up buying a vehicle to tour instead. He is a MacNeil and had relatives from Economy.

The older couple that runs the motorcamp is very pleasant. If we were here for Christmas they will put on a Christmas dinner for everyone there. We end up staying 2 more days, one to rest and one due to rain. I am desperate for a haircut, so we each take turns getting one in town. There is no free internet at library so I check out the gallery.

Pretty rainy all day the next day, so we stay in kitchen and only venture out to walk up street to takeaway. I read part of book "The Magic of Thinking Big".

Day 44 cycling 80KM
Day 45 cycling 73KM

Manapouri-Clifden Dec11-12/08

It is a short cycle day as Peter does not want to rough camp.

Joelle (older lady) who runs motorcamp is an intelligent woman. She is from California and has lived here 37 some years. The place is very homey with cute little cabins. Her son has a collection of Mini Minors.

Next day, we have a cold headwind and crosswind all day. It is 20 KM before we reach the big climb, it is tough but we make it up.

Along the way we stop at the school that the Scottish couple mentioned for drinking water and toilet. It appears to be in the middle of nowhere and suprisingly it has a big indoor swimning pool. Unfortunately no camping permitted.

I am getting to the end of my energy when we finally arrive at camping ground at Clifdon and supension bridge. It is designated camping with a long drop toilet and picnic table but no fees or other facilities. The campground appears clean so we hope that it is not a party spot.

A few campervans park for the night. Just as we are getting ready for bed, a group of partying young people arrive, they pull back the chain and drive into campground. Peter gets out of tent. They say that they will be partying here, but then ask Peter if he would like them to move to other side..."Yes please".

Shortly after they leave and we look for hidden spot in trees to move our tent to. Peter moves the tent and we move all our things with no lights.

I hear music and squealing tires later but that is all.

Day 42 cycling 23KM
Day 43 cycling 70KM

Milford Sound Dec10/08

It is a beautiful drive out to Milford Sound, especially close to Milford with tall peaks and fields of lupins. There are a number of blind turns. At Homers Tunnel we wait for green light as traffic one way every 15 minutes. On other side the road curves down, down, down. From tunnel, it is still 19km to Milford Sound where it levels out.

We receive a brown bag lunch for cruise. It is fairly choppy, at the bow on lower deck outside a couple gets splashed by the waves. I take a lot of photos out and back, my battery runs low so on bus ride back, I am not able to take many photos.

Aruna invites us to ring them when we are in London, they live about an hour outside.

I am glad that we did the Milford Cruise.

The Key -Te Anau Dec7-9/08

Sunny in morning. It is 20KM to DOC and lake. After a couple reasonable hills it is mostly downhill with a tailwind pushing us 25KPH. We are able to coast along in the wheel tracks to avoid the deeper gravel.

It is a couple kilometers to turn off to day use area. Further along at a campsite, we chat with a woman and her daughter, they kindly give us some drinking water as it is a 10 minute drive into campground where there are water taps.

After lunch we carry on. The next 38 km are fairly rough, it is not as enjoyable as the previous day; fortunately it is mostly downhill.

Finally at 58KM we reach the junction and the end of gravel!

It is too far to get to Te Anau, so 5KM on we get to a schoolyard at The Key. It has a big yard and slopes down to a small area of forest beside a fenced sheep pasture. We decide to camp in the woods.

There is a water fountain so we can fill our waterbottles. We listen to the "baaing" of sheep as we eat our noodles.

Peter tells me that we need to get out early before school starts and anyone arrives in case they don't appreciate us camping there. I think that no one will mind.

It is pouring rain when we get up, we eat breakfast in tent. Although we are packed up to leave at 7:50AM, there is a car already in the lot when we leave.

Unfortunately Peter was right, the principal comes out and is upset that we camped in the schoolgrounds. Although I tell her that we didn't leave any garbage behind, she is upset, I assume that she thinks that we left behind toilet paper in woods or worse, but we didn't leave any trace behind.

We are quite soaked by the time we reach Te Anau. At motorcamp, I am really cold, I have a hot drink in kitchen while we are waiting for a room.

On our way to room we chat with a scottish couple (cyclists). They bought bikes (and will sell their bikes) here as Emirates wanted to charge them $1,200 each to transport bikes.

We hang everything up in room to dry, including our tent and walk into town for lunch, stock up groceries and stay in room to watch TV for night.

We decide to stay in Te Anau another night to see sights. We switch to a tent site as it has stopped raining. I check into doing Milford Sound, cheapest is $100/bus and cruise. Although Peter has done the trek, he hasn't done the cruise so he agrees to do it, as I don't want to do it without him.

I do some souvenir/gift shopping. That night I chat with a couple, Aruna & Kash who are booked to do cruise next day.

Day 40 cycling 65KM
Day 41 cycling 27KM

Steamboat to Walter Peak Dec6/08

In the morning we chat with a man that recommends we take the steamboat across the water to the gravel road at Walters' Peak instead of the busy highway to Te Anau.

It sounds like a good idea so we cycle back to Queenstown. We discover the bike route along the water that is below the road and quite enjoyable.

We make the noon steamship, the Earnslaw, in time although I miss the Saturday market at the waterfront at Queenstown which has jewellry, paintings etc. It is only 45 minutes across.

At Walters' Peak there are brilliant flower gardens around the few houses. We partake of high tea which includes free coffee, tea and snack cakes, I have 3 helpings.

We watch a sheep herding demonstration with a border collie and then a sheep shearing demonstration. The sheep doesn't want to participate but has no choice. It is interesting.

The road is lovely and quiet and the gravel is not too bad-we are up close and personal with the surrounding mountains. Approximately 30 km we have a river crossing.

There is a very steep winding climb for 3km, it is very tough. I have to stop a few times to rest and manage to angle the bike so I can get back on it to continue riding. We rest at the top.

After a couple smaller climbs, I feel too tired to continue to DOC camping so we cross a field, sheltered by a hill out of the wind and set up tent.

Day 39 cycling 42KM

Frankton Dec4/08

What a beautiful day, sunny & dry with a tailwind behind us and the water is rich shades of turquoise (lots of photos). We arrive back in Queenstown in good time and stock up on groceries and money.

While waiting by harbourfront for Peter to get groceries, a couple young men go to washroon leaving their packs on the grass. A local picks up their packs hides them by the low wall surrounding the water and joins his friends on the grass to watch their reactions.

When they return and find their packs missing, it appears that they ask the group if they saw anyone remove their packs, as they take off running toward town. I try to tell them as they sprint past that a joke is being played on them but they don't hear me. Then the local runs to put their packs back on the grass.

Peter returns, I tell him what happened. The young men are gone a long time, I wonder if they will even return here...however they do, see their packs and find out that a joke was played and hopefully learned a lesson.

We head out of Queenstown on bike path beside road it is mostly downhill.

That night we end up joining an Aussie couple, Chris & Ann in their campervan for a glass of wine and conversation. The stars are out when we retire.

Day 38 cycling 48 KM

Glenorchy Dec3-4/08

It is challenging as hilly and either a headwind or crosswind. On one high exposed bluff the wind blows me off the bike as I am climbing (we guess maybe 60-80KM winds). I struggle to walk my bike around the corner.

I am very anxious about continuing riding but there is nowhere to camp until Glenorchy and fortunately after lunch, the hills are lower so it is not as bad as that one corner.

It is a pretty ride. The forcast is wet and as it is raining in the morning we stay another night. It clears up in the afternoon so we take a walk around the village which despite it's size has 3 gift shops, 3-4 eateries and some accomodation.

Day 37 cycling 48KM

Queenstown Nov30-Dec3/08

We stay in Queenstown for a couple days as Peter wants to see if he can extend his stay for a couple months by getting a Visa.

I check into options for getting back to Auckland to catch my flight to Nepal in January (likely from Christchurch).

Queenstown is like Banff, Alberta...it is expensive and caters to rich tourists and barflys. After our quiet villages and towns and the warm and cozy motorcamp we stayed at in Greymouth, it is a stark contrast.

We consider what cycling we may be able to do in the time remaining before flying out of Auckland.

During this time we read of a terrorist attack in Mumbai, India and the airport in Bangkok shutdown with protestors.

Peter is granted a 3 month Visa extension after jumping through all the hoops and the immmigration person is kind enough to quickly process it and I therefore book a flight from Christchurch to Auckland for January 5th and stay a night at the hostel/hotel we first stayed at and will fly out the next morning for Nepal.