Queenstown Nov30-Dec3/08

We stay in Queenstown for a couple days as Peter wants to see if he can extend his stay for a couple months by getting a Visa.

I check into options for getting back to Auckland to catch my flight to Nepal in January (likely from Christchurch).

Queenstown is like Banff, Alberta...it is expensive and caters to rich tourists and barflys. After our quiet villages and towns and the warm and cozy motorcamp we stayed at in Greymouth, it is a stark contrast.

We consider what cycling we may be able to do in the time remaining before flying out of Auckland.

During this time we read of a terrorist attack in Mumbai, India and the airport in Bangkok shutdown with protestors.

Peter is granted a 3 month Visa extension after jumping through all the hoops and the immmigration person is kind enough to quickly process it and I therefore book a flight from Christchurch to Auckland for January 5th and stay a night at the hostel/hotel we first stayed at and will fly out the next morning for Nepal.

Greymouth Nov27-29/08

It is a lovely sunny day and only a short cycling day into Greymouth. We cycle a short section on a busier highway and cross a bridge into the city. It is the first sizable place where I can access a ATM and update blog and check email.

I receive a reply from Maiti Nepal that I will commence teaching there on January
19th and receive their blessing to try to raise some money for their NGO.

The central Backpackers "Noah's Ark" has 50 teenagers that will party that night, so "The Global Village" is recommended. It is further out but close to a big grocery store "New World" and it is a very cool place with global wall hangings, masks etc.

At the backpackers I chat with Takashi, an amazingly young & fit looking 70 year old Japanese cyclist. It is interesting to hear about life in Japan and their move to Australia for 8 years.

As we are running out of time to get further south to see the sights we decide to take the Atomic Shuttle with our bikes to Queenstown to save a couple weeks cycling. This gives us an extra day in the city, time to update my blog, check out an exhibit at the Art Gallery (Mountains of Paparoa) and cycle to the breakwater.

It is a long day on the shuttle, from 7:30AM-5PM. We stop along the way for pitstops and photos (and at the Franz Josef Glacier). The west coast has mostly long stretches of road, sometimes winding through the trees. Before we reach Wanaka there is an interesting windy section along the coast running parallel to a long mountain range.

Before Wanaka there is a good climb then winding, winding down for 11 km, it would be tough to ride up and nerve wrecking to ride down.

During the trip we chat with Ziv (Israeli journalist and lecturer), we ask him questions about Israel and his life however he doesn't seem to have the same interest in us or Canada.

The motorcamp in Queenstown is one of the largest that we have stayed at with rows of campervans and although clean feels very impersonal compared with The Global Village (see photo of kitchen for comparison).

Day 36 cycling 30KM
Shuttle to Queenstown

Reefton-Blackball Nov25-26/08

It is still raining when we depart but fortunately the wind has abated, otherwise we would have to stop when the gust picks up. It is uncomfortable packing up our wet tent, swatting the black flies and getting into damp clothing and shoes.

In no time my shoes and shorts are soaked. Despite the rain, my jacket keeps me dry so I warm up enough with cycling. We stop and hang out inside at a store, it pours down, slacks off then pours down again.

We wait for the rain to let up, but it doesn't seem to so eventually we have to start again. We consider the Backpackers only 10 km ahead, however when we reach there it is not raining so we decide to carry on to Reefton.

After a quick snack, it finally stops raining and the sun comes out. It is good to feel some warmth!

Although the motorcamp reminds us of Tokoroa, we elect to stay in a cabinn to dry out our things. We walk into town for a pizza.



Day 34 cycling 55KM
Day 35 cycling 56KM

Murchison-Lyall Nov21-24/08

Our day starts on an unusually straight road that gradually descends for approximately 8KM. We carry on on a windy rolling road.

At 28KM we stop for lunch at the junction and a rest spot. It is a lovely spot. After lunch I chat with 4 cyclists (Kiwis) that our touring for a week. They recommend a motorcamp in Murchison.

It is generally rolling most of the way into town. As the motorcamp is just beyond town, we set up camp then ride back to pick up supplies.

We end up staying here 3 nights as the forcast is not promising with rain and wind.
I visit the museum which is quite big with many antique items and information on the 1929 earthquake which devastated the area including a huge rock that crushed one house.

Although one day we stay the weather is not bad, we hear that it is pouring south of here. Although there are a number of caravans in the motorcamp, people keep to their caravans.

I chat briefly with one American lady, they are pleased with the election of Obama as the first black president.

Despite the forcast, we leave Murchison. We decide to take the more direct route to make up some time. It isn't too bad until we turn off on the junction, then it rains steady. Our rain jackets get a good trial. Fortunately it is rolling so we don't get cold on descents and get to warm up on the ascents.

It is too far to continue beyond the DOC campsite, so we have to spend the night there. The saving grace is that there is a small 3 sided shelter with a bench around the inside.

Once we have the shelter to ourselves we set up our tent inside it, there is just enough room for the tent and for us to sit at one end on the bench. We change into dry clothes and have some tea to warm up.

The rain is continuous, it would be difficult to set up our tent outside in these conditions (and the ground is soaked). That night the wind comes in huge waves of gusts, it sounds like it is 60-80KM/hour. Although the winds buffets our tent it is nothing compared with if it was exposed in the field.

Day 32 cycling 67KM
Day 33 cycling 35KM

Tapawera-St. Arnoud Nov19-20/08

At breakfast I suggest that we leave excess jam as free food for another camper, however Peter exclaims that "We don't give free food we take it!" (we haven't found any free food).

We pass fields of "hops" (see photo long strings and rows of hops) what I think are vineyards. There is one tough climb with the winds picking up then a fast descent. Tapawera seems to have all the necessities for a small town (cafe, store, grocery, mini museum).

We have a sheltered tent site and the motorcamp is well stocked, with pots, pans, utensils, herbs, etc.

We chat with a fellow in a who equipped his van for camping complete with a single bed platform and cupboards.

That night at supper we spend the evening chatting with Michael, a Canadian who moved to New Zealand 8 years earlier with his New Zealand wife and family to escape the rat race of Vancouver. We get a Canadian perspective on life in New Zealand.

We enjoy chatting with him and he very kindly invites us to visit them in Christchurch if we happen to spend a couple days there before we fly back to Auckland.

On the way to St. Arnoud, we take the alternate Golden Downs road, aptly named for the golden flowered bushes lining the road. It is quiet with the melodic and lyrical bird sounds to serenade us.

We lunch by a stream until the black flies annoy us. The last 10 kilometers I am bonking. Fortnuately the last 5 km is downhill athough it is cool and I feel chilled when we arrive.

After a snack, it is short ride to the DOC campsite beside Nelson Lakes. Immediately I put on a jacket and long pants and bug spray as the black flies are on us.

There are hot showers and flush toilets although the cook shelter is only partially enclosed. At supper we chat with a young couple (French & Czech) touring New Zealand until June/09. They stay periodically at a WOOF (farm where they help out in exchange for free accomodation and food). It sounds like hard work however they are experiencing different ways of living to determine how they wish to live.

Day 30 cycling 53KM
Day 31 cycling 60KM

Motueka Kayak Nov17-18

We splurge on a one day kayak trip along the Abel Tasman coastline. After some instruction on getting into the paddle skirt and how to get out of the kayak if it tips over and how to paddle we get a lift to the shore on a tractor.

I wear a paddle jacket as it is breezy.

Our guides are Robyn & Ben (Ben is from BC). Except for Peter & I, the rest of the group is hiking back to the starting point after lunch.

We paddle around a couple islands, we get a quick glimpse of a seal in the water. I feel tired already and am getting blisters on my hands between my thumb and finger. It is challenging to master the paddling technique.

We have a good lunch on the beach, there are a number of groups on the beach and a water taxi pulls up to take the other kayaks back to camp.

The wind picks up so it is a bit choppy, we attempt to stay close to shore, although it is difficult to steer. Robyn ties a line to our kayak at one point to keep us in the right direction.

We paddle into a cave that at night will have glowworms. After hugging the shore, we head across the open water as it is sheltered. I am starting to feel more comfortable with the paddle stroke, thankfully as it is a long paddle still to shore.

My legs are stiff when we reach shore and can finally stand up. After rinsing out our gear we have a snack and then catch our shuttle back to the motorcamp.

Motueka Nov16-19/08

10 AM is an early start, it is overcast but the sun comes out as we get on a bike path that takes us to Richmond (suburb of Nelson). Once out of the city we pass vineyards, olive groves and various produce farms. Although we are on an alternate road it isn't that quiet.

We lunch in the schoolyard at Upper Moutere. After lunch the wind picks up so it becomes a headwind the last 20KM into Mouteka.

It is during our stay in New Zealand (shortly after we arrived) that there is a global downturn in the economy with some countries going into recession and banks failing). Also Barrack Obama is elected the first black president of the United States. An American woman that I chat with is glad of the election results.

In New Zealand there are no pennies or nickels (therefore items are rounded to nearest 10 cents when paid by cash). Most places have older sinks that are narrow and not designed to stick your hands under running water (see photo).

Trundlers are shopping carts. Cows are curious about us, they will stop and stare at us or actually come close to the fence. Cows also will line up and head to the barn to be milked.

Day 29 cycling 58 KM

Pelorus Bridge-Nelson Nov13-15/08

The clouds burn off in the morning and the road winds and turns gradually up then down. At a brief break at a beach some children are playing in a kayak close to shore. The mallards come close looking for snacks.

Past some seaside property we stop for lunch at a school and chat with a couple children who moved 3 years earlier from Ontario.

After lunch there is a bit more climbing before we reach Havelock, it is around 4PM and as I still feel fresh after stopping at the Tourist Info/Hostel we carry on the next 20KM to Pelorus Bridge.

It is mostly downhill, although busier traffic on Highway 3.

After registering at the Domain campground, we are sitting at a picnic table when a "Weeka"? bird hops up close by. I try to get a photo of it, but it moves quickly.

Our campsite is in a grove of odd looking trees, as the black flies are out, supper is quick.

Approximately 9KM from Pelorus Bridge we start the climb of Rai Saddle, we are at the top before I realize it.

At a rest stop (Graham's Point) we have lunch (no picnic table, toilet or trash can) shaded in the trees. The next climb is tough up Whangamoa Saddle, the sun is beating down with little for shade.

Halfway down we stop to give our rims and brakes time to cool off before we continue down to a Dairy (convenience store) to enjoy an icecream cone and popsicles.

15KM to go into Nelson and the last 5 is on bikepath. I am tired and hungry so we agree to do takeaway and stumble on a mediterranean cafe (apparently it is world famous)where we enjoy chicken and lamb kabobs with chickpeas....Delicious!

The showers are excellent and clean at the motorcamp.

We have a rest day in Nelson as Peter needs new brakes. Unfortunately the library is closed early and none of the galleries are open but we enjoy Gelato and Peter has another Kabob.

That night we chat with a young fellow from Czechoslovakia. He did a tramp (hike)"the Traverse Sabine" but when crossing the river fell in, soaked everything and ruined his expensive camera. His travel is cheap as he is returning a rental car to Auckland so it is only $15/day plus gas and the rental company pays the ferry charge for the vehicle. He was in BC for two months and had some interesting experiences.

Day 27 cycling 58KM
Day 28 cycling 61KM

Masterton-Picton Nov11-12/08

Another delightful route in the valley cutting through the hills. We lunch at a schoolyard. On an unusually straight road on our way into Masterton we pass vineyards.

We celebrate my birthday at the Taste Cafe with a glass of wine and a delicious salmon dinner, Peter has Butter Chicken. That evening we watch "Mission Impossible".

An early start the next day to catch the train into Wellington and then the ferry to the South Island (Picton). The train is $15 each (bikes free). We unload the bikes to lift them up into the baggage car. When we arrive in Wellington a kind lady directs across the street to the Blueline Ferry Terminal, we catch the 1PM ferry. It is a 3 hour ferry ride $65 each (including bikes).

On the ferry ride, we sit outside for awhile although it is either too windy on the front of the ferry or too hot in the sun. Inside we chat with a fellow who suffered a serious climbing accident, his good leg is prosthetic and his other leg is still healing.

After setting up camp, we ride into town to walk around the harbourfront.

Day 26 cycling 53KM

Pahiatua-Eketahuna Nov9-10/08

It is fortunately a calm day for our climb up and descent down Saddle Road. On the way up we pass a man herding a bull up the road, we give it berth. The Prime Minister has changed, as the Labour Party is out and the National Party is in.

We pass through the wind farm. The descent is steep with some tight turns, so we take it slow. The rest of the ride is idyllic, especially after we cross over the bridge on Gorge Road.

We chat with two Dutch couples at the motorcamp.

The next day is overcast but a good temperature and easy cycling past sheep and cow pastures. We make good time into Eketahuna (apparently real estate is booming here, as people are moving out from Auckland as well as foreigners).

It is sad, the owner for the Domain camping, his wife passed away a week ago (car accident). We are able to camp and use the facilities, but of course we don't see him. After our tent is pitched, I do the short Cliff Walk. That evening we chat with a cyclist (Steve) from the UK who is touring New Zealand for 5 months.

Day 24 cycling 43KM
Day 25 cycling 39KM

Bulls-Ashhurst Nov7-8/08

The rain stops before we start cycling. In no time we are out of the city and on a quiet country road with a tailwind pushing us. A short stretch on the busy Highway 3 with strong winds (not a fun stretch).

As we change direction following the country roads the wind sometimes becomes a crosswind which is very strong and challenging.

At the motorcamp in Bulls the wind blows our tent over before we get it staked out.

On my birthday, it is election day in New Zealand. We lunch at a school which is a polling station and chat with a couple locals. On the way to Ashhurst, we take the Stoney Creek road that is initially a good road until it turns into big rolling hills with fast cars.

The last 10KM into Ashhurst are challenging with strong headwinds and some traffic. As we approach we see the wind turbines on the hill.

In town we have some Takeaway and then cycle to the Domain camping. Once sheltered out of the wind it is a lovely spot.

Day 22 cycling 75KM
Day 23 cycling 61KM

Whanganui Nov4-6/08

5KM past Ranana the gravel ends! This is the best day cycling yet, the road is quiet and the landscape interesting. The road winds through the valley by the Whanganui River, it is warm, there are some climbs and good descents, and we have a tailwind so we make good time.

Our lunch is at a lovely roadside campspot. Along the way Peter races with a cat and we herd sheep with our bikes. We don't intend to but they are on the road ahead of us and can't seem to find a field to turn off into. There are a few small communities along the way.

Before we reach Whananui we make the steep climb up Aramoana Saddle, stopping along the way and at the top for photos. It is steep but rideable.

It is a windy road down, we take it slow as it is narrow and must give way to traffic coming uphill.

I take a photo of the sign for the Whanganui River Road. We missed the Bridge to Nowhere as we would have to either hike or take a boat to see it (Bridge built during war to create jobs, but never became a developed area, so it doesn't go anywhere).

With a tailwind, the 14KM to Whanganui is ok. The pedestrian walk across the train bridge saves us 6-10KM to get to the Motorcamp (on the outskirts of Whanganui) on the other side of the river.

Cheapest takeaway yet $2.60 for a piece of fish & chips (good size order).

We spend three nights as the forcast is rainy & windy and it holds true. In town we walk around, get groceries, update blog at library (I can finally download photos!) and check out the Art Gallery in a beautiful old building.

Day 21 cycling 63KM

Raetihi-Ranana (Whanganui River Road) Nov2-3/08

It is an easy descent from the Village to the highway junction, sometimes we are coasting at 38KM an hour (so it was a gradual climb to the Village). The day starts cold but warms up by the time we get to Raetihi. It is an easy cycling day as it is mostly downhill.

Raetihi is called a historical town, it appears to be almost dead as many of the shops on the main street are closed and unoccupied, apparently 8 years ago it was different. We stock up on groceries and enjoy TakeAway for supper.

We decide to take the old road to Whanganui, it is approximately 20KM longer with a 23KM "metal"(gravel) section. Except for the gravel section it is lovely the first day we only have 2 vehicles pass us. There are some big climbs and descents, rolling sheep pastures.

Just outside the small community of Pipiriki, the road turns to "tar seal" (pavement) so we enjoy the descent. We chat with a couple Maori men at the canteen. They advise us that there are some camp spots along the way and only 11-12 more kilometers of gravel.

Some of the gravel sections we have to walk and take it slow on the downhill portions, so it slows us down.

Around 4:30PM we reach the Convent in Jerusalem where there is suppose to be a Backpackers, but the nuns are not around, only 3 chickens that follow me looking to be fed. I imagine that the nuns have been cursed and turned into chickens the way they follow me and seem to talk to me. The buildings and grounds are well kept. As the road was paved, we decide to carry on to find a campsite, however it turns to gravel again.

We reach Ranana where there is a sign for a campground, we do down the steep old gravel road. It appears that the campground is deserted the building is locked and there are dry cow patties in the field. We stop for the night.

Day 19 cycling 51KM
Day 20 cycling 48KM