Merry Christmas Dec /10

A Merry Christmas and good tidings are wished to all my friends and family at home.

I will try to make some phone calls although the time difference can be a challenge.
I look forward to hearing your news either when we touch base by phone or you send me an email.

Love,

Sharon

Cold in Kathmandu/Shopping Meca Dec16/10

It is cold in Kathmandu in December (especially) and January. It is not minus 30 (Canada) with wind chill cold, however, occasionally you can see your breathe outside and there is no heating inside. I don't remember it being this cold when I was here previously in January.


I break down and buy a warm hat. The morning and evenings are cold although it warms up in the daytime, such that you take off all the layers you have been wearing.



In my room or when I am eating upstairs if I am not under two heavy covers then I am wearing my hat, fleece sweather, nylon vest, my shawl and sometimes my rain jacket. A few times I have resorted to wearing my down jacket (if my fleece is being washed).

However when I see people at night that I know will be sleeping outside, perhaps without a hat or warm layers to keep them warm, it is hard to sleep at night with the thought of these poor souls outside in the cold.

I buy some children sandals that I thought were homeless as they are so dirty, but their parents work and drop off little brother, sister and the laughing toddler at Boudha to beg during the day, fortunately they have a room to sleep in at night.



Shopping Meca







In Boudha (and elsewhere in Kathmandu you can buy just about anything) it's a good place to be if you like, no love to shop! Fortunately I curbed my shopping addiction before I came here...otherwise I could be in trouble.
















Practical items (including toilet paper) and fresh local produce.

Waffles/Tempos Nov. 29/10

Waffles

We take a taxi to Mike's Restaurant (near Naxal) for waffles. I think that I am doing the treating but my friend is, fortunately, as I didn't realize how expensive it will be. They are really tasty with curd and fruit on top...yum, yum, yum.



Tempos/Micros (tuk-tuk)




Generally your choices are the 3-wheel white micro (climb in the back, bench on each side) or the blue van (climb in the side entrance-bench on each side and a little stool near side entrance). There are rails on the ceiling to hold onto.

Occasionally you can catch a large bus where if you don't get a seat you can stand and hold onto a rail near the ceiling.

Stand at the side of the road, wave your arm and ask "Gaushala janchha?" or the destination that you want to go. Chaina (pronounced "China") means no and chha means yes.

On the blue van a young man (sometimes a boy) is hanging off the side yelling out the places that they are going but it is like an auctioneer you can't really make out what he is saying.

Also on the blue van there is an amazing capacity to cram people on like "sardines in a can". I don't take the blue van unless I get a seat or at least somewhere to rest one butt cheek. Don't expect to maintain your personal space and if you are tall you may not be too confortable. Locals carry bags of produce, etc onboard but I would take a taxi if I was carrying anything bigger than a bag I can hold on my lap.




As you are travelling along the boy is calling out the names so don't get confused and think that you are already at your destination. He may also ask inside where you are going and then ask for payment which generally is before you get to your destination.

Fortunately, I can recognize some places now so if they don't call out "Ratna Park" I can still recognize that I have reached my destination. Unfortunately, they don't seem to have any buses to Thamel. So from Ratna Park I can walk north to Thamel or south to Maiti Ghar where the immigration office is, or to the inconveniently located Tourism Office.

One day I make the mistake of taking a blue van that screeches to a halt to pick me up then weaves in and out of traffic blowing his horn...is there a fire, is your wife having a baby, are you having road rage? I am concerned that he will run someone over, his driving is ridiculous, I should have just paid my 10 rupees, got off and caught another bus.

The minimum charge is 10 rupees.

I feel uncomfortable a couple times when I am wearing my kourtasurwhal and people stare at me. I ask some teachers what I should do, they offer that people are just curious, however one teacher suggests that I say (Kay Byo?- what happened?).

I decide that I should say Namaste or tell them I am a volunteer with Maiti Nepal or ask how they are(in Nepali).

2010 CNN Hero - Anuradha Koirala!

Hooray! Hooray! Hooray! There is now a utube clip on the Maiti Nepal website, so go to it to view the emotional announcement of her win. It is such exciting news for Nepal and Maiti Nepal that Anuradha has won this. I am told that she received over 200,000 votes out of 2 million votes.

November 30-December 2nd/ 2010 In preparation for when Anuradha returns the students and teachers are busy making flags and decorations to string up across the street, as well as decorating the stage.



Large archways are set up on the street leading to Maiti Nepal, at the entrance to the office and along the street in the community of Pingalstan where Maiti Nepal is located. Streamers are strung across the streets leading to the office. It looks very pretty.

I get a message from my friend in the morning that if I come to her room she can lend me a sari to wear. I wait until I get to the school to put it on as it is cold this morning. A teacher helps me to put it on. The students smile when they see me in the sari and tell me how beautiful I look.



Her plane is due to arrive at 12:30PM. The street is swept and a red carpet is laid on the street from Pingalstan to the Maiti Nepal office. People line the route holding flowers and scarves to give her their blessings.



While waiting for a couple hours we get word that she tried to leave the airport but the crowds were so great that she had to return until they arranged for her safety from the crush of people. Eventually some students come by pulling many suitcases.

Another half hour and Anuradha comes by. She is surrounded by a chain of young men that protect her from the crowds. I call her name as she goes by and she grabs my hand. On the grounds of Maiti Nepal, Anuradha makes her way to the stage.

Everyone cheers and people line up to give her their flowers, scarves and well wishes. While dancers perform a couple dances she is still receiving blessings from people.



Afterwards she gives a brief speech and thanks everyone, including the children that voted for her.

A couple of the women who can't read or write and couldn't use a computer before voted for her. Guests proceed over to the school where a boxed lunch is handed out.

Nepali Wedding November 19/2010

I meet Padam early (6AM). We go to the groom's house, he is wearing tradional clothing for his caste, which is a white sash criss-crossed across his chest, knee length pants and a nepali cap.



Later he changes into a suit but a thick white cloth is wrapped around his cap and money is tucked in the front of it. His hair is cut short as required.





A Nepali band arrives playing traditional instruments which include two long horns (that appear very heavy), two long curved horns, a couple small horns (like trumpets) and various sizes of drums and metal cymbals.

After the band arrives many people start arriving in suits or traditional Nepali attire and women in Kourtasurwhal or saris. Some younger generation men wear jeans and western style clothing.

Some guests are presented with a white scarf (including myself) and men are given a white tikka.



Later all the band, and the groom carried on piggyback and covered by an umbrella (carried to a vehicle) family and guests start walking to where the bride is. The procession inches along narrow streets and crosses a major intersection taking up a good portion of the busy roadway. It is about a 45 minute walk to the grounds where the bride is the reception etc. will be held.

Initially the bride comes out and receives a ring (not sure if the groom receives one or if I missed anything here).

They sit in special seats (under a silk 3 sided tent)and people start lining up to give the bride and groom a red tikka, an invory or coloured scarf, and a gift. Both the bride and groom and guest bow their heads or raise their folded hands to their forehead after receipt (as a thankful or gesture or blessing).



This continues for hours as there are 500-1000 guests.

Eventually Padam and I take our turn going up. I say congratulations in Nepali "Badhai chha" and give an envelope to the bride.

After the couple has eaten, guests are permitted. We line up buffet style. There is a good selection (not spicy) of rice, baked beans, vegetables, roti, salad and chicken. There is curd with fruit for desert. Everything is very tasty.


The groom's nephew (2 yr old) is really cute!



Some new friends.








A couple other parts of the wedding ceremony, oil or water? is poured over people's hands, underneath are the bride's hands, then the groom's hands. Also red powder is applied to the bride's hands and yellow powder to the groom's hands, then it is rinsed off.



After the couple is married, the family members are introduced to the groom...a cloth is held up between the two parties, two plates are on the ground on either side of the cloth. The groom's side puts an enevelope on the plate and then the plates are switched...the other side receives the envelope and the cloth is dropped. This continues with each family member to meet the groom.

Padam says that the bride is crying when it is time for her to leave her family and go to the groom's house.

Chatt Holiday November 13th/2010

I feel really fortunate to have some Nepali friends that take me to see this (by Pashupati) as otherwise I wouldn't be out at night to see it.

This is the festival of the Sun God. Chatt is celebrated by the Terai people on the fourth day after Baitikka. People fast by the river all day and worship the setting sun.

There are many offerings of fruit that they give when the sun rises. Lights are lit along the river and people stay awake all night.

Sangha November 12/2010

Finally dropped off the donation of clothes at Maiti Nepal then met Padam to go to Sangha to see the ENORMOUS Lord Shiva!

It is about an hour ride east of Kathmandu on his bike. The road is a bit bumpy in places but he is an excellent driver so no worries.

From the road far below you can see the statute. It is 143 feet high! I feel fortunate to see it as it only opened to the public in June of this year and there is no charge.

On one side of Shiva is his wife and children (including the elephant God Ganesh) and the other side is a cow (protector?).





















On the way back we stop to visit some family members. I am really suprised to see a small washer/spinner in the bathroom as well as a hot water tank for showers! I have never seen this before in a Nepali home.

Notice the young woman's sweather...it is close to home (double-click to enlarge photo).

Birthday Fun November 2010

On my birthday I get together with some friends at Flavours and later some friends come over but Padam was up too late at Tihar so he takes a nap.



I get a book about Nepal from my German friend, lots of bangles and earrings from my Nepali friends.

On your birthday, children give their classmates and teachers a sweet so I manage to buy enough suckers and gum for the children from Nursery to Class 4...unfortunately I can not buy enough for the whole school of 400 students.

Bhai tikka ceremonies 1 & 2 (Nov 9/10, 2010)

Padam's grandparents.






I am invited to two Bhaitika ceremonies, which is part of Tihar celebrations. The first is at Padam's home with his large family.

At Bhaitika, sisters honour their brothers to wish them good health, etc.; in return brothers give gifts too their sisters.

His sisters start by showering their brothers with marigolds on their heads and shoulders and putting a colourful tikka on their forehead. They also drape a garland of marigolds around their neck. In return the brothers give their sisters a tikka on their forehead and giving them a gift of money (with rice and marigold petals enclosed in the money) or perhaps material for a new Kourtasurwhal.


Padam's large family.








The second is to a Newari home. The ceremony is slightly different but similar. I really feel grateful to be invited to witness their elaborate ceremonies. Even I get a tikka. There is a huge feast afterwards...reminds me of Christmas.