Nepali Wedding November 19/2010

I meet Padam early (6AM). We go to the groom's house, he is wearing tradional clothing for his caste, which is a white sash criss-crossed across his chest, knee length pants and a nepali cap.



Later he changes into a suit but a thick white cloth is wrapped around his cap and money is tucked in the front of it. His hair is cut short as required.





A Nepali band arrives playing traditional instruments which include two long horns (that appear very heavy), two long curved horns, a couple small horns (like trumpets) and various sizes of drums and metal cymbals.

After the band arrives many people start arriving in suits or traditional Nepali attire and women in Kourtasurwhal or saris. Some younger generation men wear jeans and western style clothing.

Some guests are presented with a white scarf (including myself) and men are given a white tikka.



Later all the band, and the groom carried on piggyback and covered by an umbrella (carried to a vehicle) family and guests start walking to where the bride is. The procession inches along narrow streets and crosses a major intersection taking up a good portion of the busy roadway. It is about a 45 minute walk to the grounds where the bride is the reception etc. will be held.

Initially the bride comes out and receives a ring (not sure if the groom receives one or if I missed anything here).

They sit in special seats (under a silk 3 sided tent)and people start lining up to give the bride and groom a red tikka, an invory or coloured scarf, and a gift. Both the bride and groom and guest bow their heads or raise their folded hands to their forehead after receipt (as a thankful or gesture or blessing).



This continues for hours as there are 500-1000 guests.

Eventually Padam and I take our turn going up. I say congratulations in Nepali "Badhai chha" and give an envelope to the bride.

After the couple has eaten, guests are permitted. We line up buffet style. There is a good selection (not spicy) of rice, baked beans, vegetables, roti, salad and chicken. There is curd with fruit for desert. Everything is very tasty.


The groom's nephew (2 yr old) is really cute!



Some new friends.








A couple other parts of the wedding ceremony, oil or water? is poured over people's hands, underneath are the bride's hands, then the groom's hands. Also red powder is applied to the bride's hands and yellow powder to the groom's hands, then it is rinsed off.



After the couple is married, the family members are introduced to the groom...a cloth is held up between the two parties, two plates are on the ground on either side of the cloth. The groom's side puts an enevelope on the plate and then the plates are switched...the other side receives the envelope and the cloth is dropped. This continues with each family member to meet the groom.

Padam says that the bride is crying when it is time for her to leave her family and go to the groom's house.

Chatt Holiday November 13th/2010

I feel really fortunate to have some Nepali friends that take me to see this (by Pashupati) as otherwise I wouldn't be out at night to see it.

This is the festival of the Sun God. Chatt is celebrated by the Terai people on the fourth day after Baitikka. People fast by the river all day and worship the setting sun.

There are many offerings of fruit that they give when the sun rises. Lights are lit along the river and people stay awake all night.

Sangha November 12/2010

Finally dropped off the donation of clothes at Maiti Nepal then met Padam to go to Sangha to see the ENORMOUS Lord Shiva!

It is about an hour ride east of Kathmandu on his bike. The road is a bit bumpy in places but he is an excellent driver so no worries.

From the road far below you can see the statute. It is 143 feet high! I feel fortunate to see it as it only opened to the public in June of this year and there is no charge.

On one side of Shiva is his wife and children (including the elephant God Ganesh) and the other side is a cow (protector?).





















On the way back we stop to visit some family members. I am really suprised to see a small washer/spinner in the bathroom as well as a hot water tank for showers! I have never seen this before in a Nepali home.

Notice the young woman's sweather...it is close to home (double-click to enlarge photo).

Birthday Fun November 2010

On my birthday I get together with some friends at Flavours and later some friends come over but Padam was up too late at Tihar so he takes a nap.



I get a book about Nepal from my German friend, lots of bangles and earrings from my Nepali friends.

On your birthday, children give their classmates and teachers a sweet so I manage to buy enough suckers and gum for the children from Nursery to Class 4...unfortunately I can not buy enough for the whole school of 400 students.

Bhai tikka ceremonies 1 & 2 (Nov 9/10, 2010)

Padam's grandparents.






I am invited to two Bhaitika ceremonies, which is part of Tihar celebrations. The first is at Padam's home with his large family.

At Bhaitika, sisters honour their brothers to wish them good health, etc.; in return brothers give gifts too their sisters.

His sisters start by showering their brothers with marigolds on their heads and shoulders and putting a colourful tikka on their forehead. They also drape a garland of marigolds around their neck. In return the brothers give their sisters a tikka on their forehead and giving them a gift of money (with rice and marigold petals enclosed in the money) or perhaps material for a new Kourtasurwhal.


Padam's large family.








The second is to a Newari home. The ceremony is slightly different but similar. I really feel grateful to be invited to witness their elaborate ceremonies. Even I get a tikka. There is a huge feast afterwards...reminds me of Christmas.

Tihar (Festival of Lights) November 5-10th

The first lights I see for Tihar are at Boudha decorating the Stupa and a monastery. It is really beautiful.









Tihar reminds me of Christmas as lights and decorations are put up in homes, shops and the streets. Shops and homes are decorated with garlands and a mandala and candles are lit leading into the home to invite Goddess Laxmi into their home to bless them with wealth.



A couple friends and I go to Durbar Square and the marketplace to see the lights. A beautiful mandela is made of various colour powders in the square.



Tihar...

Also called Diwali, held during October/November. It is a Hindu festival.

The first day the crow is worshipped.
The second day the dog is worshipped. (That is why Julie has a garland)
The third and fourth day the cow and bull is worshipped and their is puja for the goddess Laxmi (as mentioned above).
The fifth day sisters worship their brothers at Bhaitika (see next post).



That night I stay in my friends' room and join in the dancing on the street. I feel a bit shy as I am the only foreigner and I am not sure how to dance to the music.

People dance and sing in front of the homes and shops to receive gifts (money, food, etc.) The next night, there is more dancing, Padam's relatives from the village are there to celebrate in their traditional Nepali dress. One tall man leads the chorus of chanting, however the celebrants are a bit drunk so their dancing is a bit more wobbly.

German friend / Get togethers with friends

I get together with Inge, fairly often for supper before she goes to a village (Baratnegar) in the far Eastern Terai to help out at a school that her friend raised donations to build.






Inge, my friends and I have dinner one night at Garden Kitchen...the food is soooo tasty.




This is Urmila and her children. She invites me to see their bai tikka ceremony during Tihar.




My young friend and her father that have a portable business on the Stupa at Boudha.



I get together with another young friend and her family at Jorpati. I saw them last time I was here and bought scarves as gifts for friends.

New room October 31, 2010

You can find out why Julie, the dog is wearing a garland of marigolds in the explanation about Tihar.





I think that the monsoon is finished but one day the rain comes down very hard for a few minutes then it lets up. I head back to the Stupa, but it starts raining again so I go to Flavours. While sitting there I listen to the sound of the rain on the roof; it is raining so hard!

I consider staying in room at Maiti Nepal home, but after I determine that I can catch the tempo to and from school (15 minutes) instead of 45 minute walk; I decide to stay in Boudha. I like the peace and quiet and easy Internet and phone access.

I love the Dragon Guest House but I want to save some money so I make arrangements to stay at the house that my friend showed me. It is very close to Dragon I ask for a taxi to take me for 50 rupees but he wants 150 so my friend and I make two trips to move everything over.

It is nice as the grandmother at Dragon wants a photo of me.



My new room has my own attached bathroom with western style toilet, sink and shower. I do see small cockroaches but I pull my bed, etc away from the wall. Like my friend who stayed there I arrange for the Didi (older sister) to do my laundry so she can earn some money. I also discuss the possibility of 5 evening meals a week upstairs with the family.

Flyers for Anuradha Koirala

I feel quite pleased with myself as I type up flyers requesting support (Vote for Anuradha Koirala) to put up in Thamel and Boudha at the guesthouses and coffee shops frequented by westerners.

With my friend's advice and directions I catch a tempo to Ratna Park and then walk up to Thamel. With my limited Nepali I say that I am a volunteer with Maiti Nepal and then hold up my flyer and ask if I can put it on their bulletin board. Every hotel agrees.

One man in a jewelery store calls me over as he is curious what I am doing. I show him the flyer. He agrees to vote and also wants Anuradha to know about young girls in his village (in the Terai) who are still forced to marry young and the talented artists (woman) that create beautiful work but have no way to sell their work. He also offers to translate French for free if she needs French translated. I suggest that he write her a note in Nepali and I will give it to her.

I manage to put up approximately 50 flyers!

I meet my friend for a snack and then she tells me where to go to catch a tempo back to Boudha.

Haircut/ Badra

Haircut

My hair is getting too long (for me). My friend takes me to a local barber shop. I show him the photo of the haircut. He says he can do it. He does a decent job for 50NPR (less than $1.00). I get a head massage at the end...part of the massage feels like he is rapping on my head with his knuckles quite hard. Sometimes I feel like a sideshow.

Badra

There is a beggar woman that I see on my way to school. She was here when I was in Nepal last year and I used to give her money....she remembers me. She is missing a lot of teeth. This year I feel more inclined to give to people that are disabled or to support Maiti Nepal.

One day she is holding her cheek, she is going to the Schezen Clinic to see a dentist for a toothache. When I return from my guesthouse on my way again to meet my friend, I see her again but this time she is sitting and crying. I think that the clinic is closed for the holiday.

I walk with her to a pharmacy, get her to talk to the pharmacist to see if there is anything that he can give her. I tell him that I will pay for it. He gives her some pills (250NPR) for 5 days and she can take some right then at the counter. I try to explain that I have to go to meet my friend - another woman tells her and I run to catch a tempo.



My friend's neice spends a day with me at Boudha. She is 13 years old. My friend puts her on the tempo (mini bus) and she stops at Boudha gate...it is the first time she has ridden on a tempo by herself.

We have a fun day together, walking around the Stupa, playing cards and having lunch with another young friend in a restaurant.

I get her to talk to the beggar woman to find out why she begs. She says that she can do cleaning but no one will give her a job. Her husband also begs. I think that her two boys live with her mother. I also find out her name and her two boys.

I try to think of what work she can do. I mention that maybe I can get her to do my laundry. After I mention it I wonder if she can do a good job and if my clothes will be secure where she hangs them up to dry.

Another day she grabs my arm as she wants to see if I can give her this work. She takes me to some young boys to get them to ask. I try to explain my concerns and also that I want to see where she will wash my clothes.

She takes me to her room and shows me her washing area. It is in the toilet room and it does not look agreeable. Somehow in the communication with the boys she thinks that I am concerned that she will steal my clothes...however after seeing the washing area I don't want her to do my laundry. I wish that I hadn't mentioned it to her.