Frankfurt May 6-12/09

Leaving Nepal was uneventful, fortunately no "bandh" (strike).

After a 3 hour hop to Bankok, 5 hour wait in airport (chatting with an older woman from Copenhagen) and a long flight to Frankfurt I arrive around 6AM. I catch the train to the hostel (historic old building)which is conveniently located across the street from the train station.






In the afternoon I sign up for the free city tour. Along the way there are historic buildings, sculpture and the river. Peter arrives safely the next day. I meet him at the aiport and cry when I see him.







Getting my bike is an all day affair. First waiting for it to arrive, then finding out that we have to pick it up at the cargo depot instead of at the airport...taking the train then a couple buses. Unexpectedly I have to pay 19 EU (Customs Clearance). From the cargo office we walk close to a kilometer to Customs fortunately they don't inspect it which would cost 53EU.

We walk back to the cargo office then over to the warehouse. The fellows look at us when we tell them we don't have a car as the box weighs 45kg (approximately 100lbs). We think that we have to wait 2 hours for the next bus, we start carrying the box however one of the fellows takes the box via a forklift to the bus stop and tells us that the bus is in 3 minutes.

The hardest part is carrying and dragging the box across the street from the train station to the hostel...we stop several times to rest. I put my bike together (while Peter naps) and spend about an hour scraping tar off my rear wheel (from New Zealand).

We look into options to get to Italy. Ryanair is cheap but with the bikes and our luggage we expect that it won't be so cheap. Although expennsive, we end up booking the train to Munich then overnight to Florence for 238EU ($380Cdn).

Although the hostel includes a breakfast which sometimes includes museli, yogurt, toast or buns, coffee or tea and boiled eggs and cold cuts cheese, it is expensive 20EU ($32Cdn) (dorm) and 48EU ($76Cdn)(private)(compared to Nepal) for our budget.




The art museum in Frankfurt has some portraits from the 16th century with amazing skin tones. Peter picks up a couple maps and a guide book for Italy.

Leaving Nepal May4/09

Tomorrow I fly to Frankfurt, Germany. I will meet Peter there on May 7th.

Nepal is a wonderful experience. I have some good friends here and when I finish school before treking the Anapurna Base Camp, my heart is aching at the thought of leaving my students. I do not realize how strong the emotion is until it hits me one day. I love these children and hope that I will get to see them again.


Maiti Nepal is a wonderful organization, and if you are coming to Nepal and have room in your luggage, please bring clothes for the children from tiny tots to children (boys and girls (mostly) up to 18 years old) or consider sponsoring a child as your dollars can go a long way here.

Back in Kathmandu/Goodbyes

The couple weeks before I leave Kathmandu are busy with visiting with friends, buying gifts and making arrangements for my bicycle.

I buy more scarves from Soru and am talked into going with her to visit her family in their village for one night. Soru wears a T-shirt and jeans and I wear my kourtasulwall.

It is a long bumpy ride to her village (Partiso?) after leaving Banepa. From the small village we climb a steep path winding up to her grandfather's house. We stop a couple times to catch our breathe.





Her sister, Sharmila prepares dhal bhat and tea for us. Although I start to eat it with my fingers thankfully Soru offers me a spoon.



Afterwards we walk down a steep pathway to her other grandfather's house. Initially we sit out on a mat on the veranduh until I find it too hot. Inside her grandfather makes roti rolling out the dough, heating it on a stone over the fire then placing it near the fire to brown it.

Everywhere we go someone offers us food, I try to refuse as I am full but feel obligated to eat some.

We sit outside in the dark until supper is ready as the house is very smokey from the fire. Upstairs by flashlight I see the uncle's wedding photos.

At night I hear a mouse or rat in the walls or on the floor (its' nails scratching around) - I shine my flashlight around periodically to scare it away. The pillow is very hard so I use some clothes for my pillow.

In the morning we have tea. The goat is plaintively crying to be fed from her stall near the kitchen.

Soru's family is very nice, they ask if I can stay another day...I likely would say yes if I hadn't arranged to phone Buddha.



Sending my bicycle

I end up sending my bicycle by cargo as the overweight charge on the airlines is very expensive $35/kg/lb? and I am unable to find out about sending it as accompanied cargo (on my flight).

Bishnu makes the arrangements for me, I just ask him to ensure that "no drugs are sent with my bike". I take the bike by taxi but have to carry it to the office by myself from the main gate as the roads are blocked. After waiting an hour the men from the cargo company arrive. They tell me that to protect my bike it requires a wooden box and if it weighs 45kg it will cost less per kg then the actual weight of my bike...it still costs a couple hundred US. The cargo company will have the box made for me.

On another date, I return to go by taxi with the cargo fello to the cargo depot near the airport to complete the paperwork and provide a copy of my passport. On the way back there is a blockade so I pay the taxi driver half fare then walk back to Boudha.

Nepali flick

One night Buddha, Padam and I go to see a Nepali movie, it is an action flick with karate or Tai Kwando. I can follow the gist of the story as the acting is so over the top...I find it funny.

Tiebetan doctor

Ghandruk to Naya Pul -Pokara

The pace is quick so I am soon left behind. We see a last glimpse of the snow capped mountains. It is mostly downhill and not too steep.

Eventually we get to the road, it is dull after being on the trail but it does pass through a village where the children ask for sweets. I see a man plowing a field with 2 oxen (water buffalos?).



We end up at the lunchspot where we started. I pick up 3 envelopes to give a tip to the guide/porters as I am not sure how I would have made out finding my way on my own.

Lost

The group is out of sight when I leave the permit office. I take a lower trail following a group of hikers across a bridge and up a steep hill to all the little shops where the taxis and buses are waiting...I walk up and down but don't see our group.

Ok I think, maybe I should have taken the road from the checkpoint office instead of the trail so I go back down the hill...I head back down the street of shops where we saw the packhorses when we started but I don't see our group so I turn around and go back to the checkpoint office. I start up the road but realize that it isn't the right way either.

By this point I feel very stressed as it is past the time that the van was to pick us up...my throat is dry and I feel overheated as I have been racing back and forth trying to locate the group. I head back down to the bridge intending to go back up to the shops and wait when I see Renuka and Danu waiting for me. They didn't wait for me as they thought that I knew the way.

It is 1:50PM when I reach the van. I appologize and lean my head back with my eyes closed and drink my water. They ask me what happened. I tell them that I crossed the bridge 3 times.


Pokara

It pours just as we get unloaded at the Three Sisters. I give my envelopes to the guides, porters.

I borrow Matt's guidebook to see about arranging a hotel. I noticed the Snowline on the way in, so I phone there and get a room for the night. It is higher than expected but I agree as I just want to have something arranged.

Verena leaves her luggage at Three Sisters until she finds a hotel. She accompanies me in the taxi and as my hotel has a TV she opts to stay here as well. The room is fine except for the huge spider that I get a staff to kill.

At night I walk down to the lake. Pokara is pretty but very hot. The next day I want to sketch at the lake but it is too hot even in the shade.

I switch to a cheaper hotel off the main drag, send emails, phone the Dragon to confirm a room and arrange a bus to Kathmandu the next day and meet the gang for supper. The chicken in white wine is excellent.








Although I am tensed about catching my bus the next morning, all goes smoothly. The road winds around a deep ravine with a rushing torrent of water and big rocks. The road climbs very high then drops down again and climbs steeply again before we reach Kathmandu. At times the bus passes where I think it is not wise to do so. Instead of being petrified for the whole journey I decide to accept that my fate is either to survive the ride or not and that worrying about it won't change my fate, so I enjoy the ride.

It is interesting passing through the rural communities, farms, terraced lands bypassing long suspension bridges and towns and shops that line the highway.

When I get off in Kathmandu I do not know where I am in relation to Boudha, when I am pointed in what I hope is the right direction I start walking and eventually give in to catching a taxi.

ABC Day 7-10 Deurali to ABC to Ghandruk

I decide to go and turn back if I have any concern. Sunita the guide says that it is safer to go early in the morning. We leave at 7:20AM and it is around 11:30AM by the time we reach MBC and beyond the avalanche zones.



I debated staying at MBC as I feel some pressure in my head however I carry on as I am told that if I develop a problem I can go back to MBC and sleep in the dining room.

It is a slow climb up the snow slopes; as a mist or fog rolls in the big rocks look like a house until you get close enough to distinquish them. Finally we reach base camp after an hour or so climbing.







Verena, Valentina, Marion and I share the last available room.

After a snack, I walk above base camp, past a shrine with prayer flags and plagues...there is a very steep drop on the other side. There are tent groupings past the guesthouse (I assume the true mountainers).



I have a slight headache. As it is cold I get ready for bed early. We sit in the dining room enjoying the heater (as everyone has agreed to pay for it).

The next day we rise early to see the sunrise. After breakfast I start down by myself early as I wish to get past the avalanche slopes...I'm past them by 10:30AM.





At Deurali we have lunch.

On the way down it spits a little. I am really tired, the back of my right calf is quite sore. I would have liked to stop at Devon instead of going the extra hour down to Bamboo however arrangements have already been made for us at Bamboo. We arrive at 5PM.



Verena & I sleep in a storeroom where staff walks through to carry things from the kitchen to the dining hall, leave the door open and reach over my bed to take supplies from the shelves. The hot water to wash with feels so good.



The next day I hike more on my own, listening to the birds as the trail meanders through the trees.

On the way we meet a Hari Krishna dressed all in orange. I thought he was joking when he said "Hari Krishna". Verena stops to have a talk with him.

It is a long long climb up to Chhomrong.

Overlooking the guesthouses at Jhin....we see a rooftop with tables and umbrellas-it looks so civilized. We skip the hot pool as it is a half hour walk downhill and it starts to rain.

The next day we have breakfast outside. I buy a thin bright scarf as I've been admiring how handy Verena's scarf is for shading her from the sun.



It is a very long steep walk down, then through some trees and up again. As it is hot and muggy I put on my wet top. Ghandruk appears to be a good size village...I wonder what the population is? It is very neat with a labrinth of stone buildings and alleyways.

The Hotel Trekkers Inn is very nice-3 levels with pots of flowers, geraniums, etc.
Minutes after sitting down outside it starts to rain, first big drops then it pours and hails...talk about fortunate to have finished trekking for the day!

When the rain lets up some we take a walk through the village to the museum (interesting) and to a monestary. I feel that I want to see more of this village. The view of the village was more attractive on the way to our guesthouse.

ABC Day 4-6 Tadapani to Deurali

Day 4 Tadapani to Chhomrong (2170m)
We start at 7:30AM so we may get a room. First there is a fairly steep downhill for a couple hours then we cross a suspension bridge and have a steep climb up. I have to pause and catch my breath frequently.



At 10AM I am ready for lunch but we only have tea and keep going.
We arrive at 1PM. I feel irritable as it is later than I expect to eat and my upper back is sore and I have a sore spot on my shoulder where a strap is rubbing.

After a nap and lunch I have a shower and do laundry. My legs feel very sore and stiff going down the stairs.



Day 5 Chhomrong to Dovan (2600m)



The mountains look quite lovely with the sun shining on them before we leave. It is hot today. We go down, down stairs until we reach a suspension bridge and nice waterfalls then climb up sometimes through the trees.



Matt is very slow climbing today. Verena and I are concerned if he has altitude sickness but isn't admitting it as he is eating next to nothing.

However after lunch at Bamboo he zooms up the hill...



At Dovan the guesthouse is full, Matt has a room so Verena, I and other guests will sleep in the dining hall. I hang my top on an antler horn.

Day 6 Dovan to Deurali (3210m)



We start around 7:30AM. On the way there are people of all ages and fitness levels. Some woman 60+ even have fairly good size packs. One asian lady is being carried piggyback by a porter. I see lots of butterflies and lady bugs.

I take it very slow going up hill but my legs and back are fine and we arrive in good time. After lunch a few of us climb higher to acclimatize by sleeping at a lower altitude.

Anapurna Base Camp Trek Day1-3 Naya Pul to Tadapani

There is a long queue at the airport, however despite some concern about making my flight it all works out. It is a short flight. I am not on the right side of the aircraft which allows up close views of the mountains.

Pokara feels warmer than Kathmandu as soon as I step off the plane. I ask around to see if anyone wants to share a taxi but no luck. After a quick call to Verena, I taxi to 3 Sisters to meet her for breakfast.

After breakfast we walk to catch a taxi. I change some money to get smaller bills and get a taxi to take me to the ACAP office to get my permit and TIMS card. Verena suggested to get the taxi to wait which is a good suggestion as I don't see any readily available at the office.

By the time I get back to the guesthouse Matt is there and he has arranged a mini bus at a good price to transport us to the trailhead. Along the way we pass some very packed buses.

Day 1 Naya Pul to Hille
Treking is very hot. I am ready at the end of the first day for a hot shower and bed. In the night I think that I hear a mouse rustling in our bags.



Day 2 Hille to Ghorepani


We rise early, have a reasonably good breakfast and start at 7:45AM. Although there is a climb of 3280 steps and about 6-8 hours treking, I don't find it so tough, maybe as it is cloudy.

At one stop a little boy is sitting under a table feeding a baby goat with a bottle.



Day 3 Ghorepani to Tadapani
We rise at 4:30AM to climb Poon Hill to see the sun rise. It is cloudy so the views are not so great, however I enjoy the quiet and the sounds of the birds.

We get a late start, leave around 9AM. We start downhill, stop for tea at a market area then uphill through the woods and then endless downhill. The back of my calves ache.

It is 2PM by the time we stop for lunch it starts to rain then comes down very hard with hail. I put on my rain jacket and pants. Shortly after we head out it starts hailing again. It is a steep downhill so we take it very slow. The uphill section is very steep but the rain and hail let up.

I am quite tired by the time we arrive. Verena opts to sleep in the "dinning hall" as she does not want the three of us to share a room...so Matt & I share one.

Teachers Performance/Last Day School Apr6/09

In the morning I am emotional and feel so sad at the thought of saying goodbye to the children but I rally when I see the children and we wait our turn to do our performance.



All the performers are teachers and staff of Maiti Nepal. It took several practises for our group to decide what music to use and what steps to perform. The students roar their approval...the male teachers are fun to watch...some men are more relaxed than others at dancing.





The women in the beautiful saris are some of the teachers.

I took videos of the dance performances...if I can figure out how to download to my blog; I will do so as it will be fun to watch.

Exams & Dance Practise Mar/09

There has been some heavy rain, thunder and lightening; fortunately I have been able to get back to the guesthouse before any great downpour.

I start exam review early, too early as the students get bored and restless in class. During exams I monitor students while they are writing. In the afternoons we are practising our dance steps for the performance we are putting on for the children of Maiti Nepal.





One night all the teachers, principal and myself go out for supper to celebrate the end of the school year. It reminds me of a food court. Flora orders a variety of dishes that we all share. Buddha tells me which dishes are okay, not too spicy to eat. I try one that Flora says is not too spicy hot but I start coughing...so I pass on that dish.

I am presented with a white scarf as a thank you for my volunteering. I am touched by the gesture...all I can really do is to say thank you!